Helmsdale’s history goes back to before the construction of Helmsdale Castle in 1488. The castle’s main claim to fame was as the location of the poisoning of the 11th Earl of Sutherland in 1567 by his Aunt, Isobel Sinclair, to clear the way for her own son to become Earl. The castle fell into ruins in the 1800’s, and the few remains were swept aside to make way for improvements to the A9 in the 1970’s.
Helmsdale’s story actually dates back at least as far as the Vikings, who settled the sheltered mouth of the River Ullie or River Helmsdale as it is now more usually known.
Part of what you see in Helmsdale today dates from a more recent period of history: and an unhappy one. In the early 1800’s almost all of the inland settlements in the area were cleared of their inhabitants in order to make way for more profitable residents: sheep. Clearances took place right across the Highlands and Islands, but those perpetrated by the first Duke of Sutherland in this area were amongst the most notorious.
Helmsdale grew as a planned village from 1814, laid out on a grid pattern by the Sutherland Estates. Some of the cleared were resettled in Helmsdale, as an alternative to being shipped to the colonies or to North America. The aim was to create a community able to live from both fishing and farming, and, in particular take advantage of the herring boom then in full swing.
The harbour was built in the years from 1818, and extended in 1823 and again in 1892. As you look around Helmsdale's harbour today, try to imagine it as home port for the 200 or more herring boats that once operated from here.
A more recent attraction in Helmsdale is the Timespan Heritage Centre. The museum here gives an insight into the colourful history of Helmsdale and the surrounding area. There is also a gallery showcasing the work of international, national and local artists; an excellent cafe overlooking the riverside community garden; and a shop.
The Timespan Heritage Centre also contains information about the gold rush of 1869, which focused on two tributaries of the Helmsdale River in Strath Kildonan. It is still possible to pan for gold.
Until the building of the new bridge at the time of Helmsdale Castle's final demise, the A9 turned inland and crossed the River Helmsdale at the inland end of the village's main street via a two arch stone bridge built by Thomas Telford in 1811. The old bridge remains, but the main crossing now lies at the seaward end of Helmsdale where the A9 takes a straight line through the village.
John O’Groats is just over an hour away and the region is rich in wildlife. Attractions include Castles, Museums, Distilleries, Wool Mills and even a Llama Farm. Excellent restaurants/cafes can be found in Helmsdale and Brora which is about 9 miles south on the A9.
By far the best source of additional information are the Helmsdale and timespan web sites:
http://www.helmsdale.org/
http://www.timespan.org.uk/
